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Sunday, 12 June 2016

Milk Toffee - Sri Lankan Style - for dummies

Finally I get to write my milk toffee post!

The art of making milk toffee is supposedly simple. You just mix sweetened condensed milk, a bit of water and sugar together and cook it until it is done. Everyone has their own special ratio of ingredients and they all claim to yield milk toffees. The fact that they are so easy to make has left me stumped and feeling stupid for over 30 years!


My first encounter with milk toffee was through our gardeners wife. She worked in the tuck shop at my school. Of course the tuck shop was in the secondary school and I was in elementary school at the time. On some days she would pass by to see her husband on her way home from work and she would bring us a bag of crumbs, left over from the bulk production of milk toffees in the tuck shop. They were delicious and I couldn't wait to get to secondary school so that I could bust my pocket money on them. Finally when I arrived in secondary school I was placed in a classroom that was in the same building as the tuck shop. You have to imagine, it was just one long hall divided into three sections with wooden screens. Two sixth grade classes and the tuck shop. The smells were tantalising. I continued to get crumbs out the back door until our gardeners wife left for better things. My mother did not, and still does not, make milk toffee but she did hire the gardeners wife to make us some every now and then. Absolutely delicious stuff.
In sixth grade the girls taking home science as a subject learned to make milk toffee in class. I took needlework with a handful of others. Our teacher took pity on us and agreed to sneak in a milk toffee session when she could get the kitchen and no one else was around. This was fantastic. I thought I would learn how to make milk toffee and that I did. I learned that you could make them to perfection in just 2 periods and that just because you take home science doesn't mean that you can cook!
So I went through bouts of phases where I tried to make milk toffee. They always tasted good but they never came out quite like I wanted them and they took me hours to make. I never quite got the hang of it.
I tried to make them sporadically over the years but my husband was quite against any sudden craves for milk toffee because it would entail me standing at the cooker for a good 3 hours. Then one year, not so long ago, my aunt from Toronto came to visit us in Germany. She made me milk toffee and showed me the trick of dropping the mixture into a glass of cold water and then "testing" it. Her milk toffee were always perfect. However, I still had trouble because when I made mine alone I was never quite sure if the consistency was correct.
Last time I was home, in Sri Lanka, I craved milk toffee. I figured the easiest thing to do was to go to the store and buy some. But was I disappointed! The were all sugary and nothing like the smooth morsels that I remember from my childhood. I tried making a batch for my birthday party but although everyone said they tasted delicious I knew that they were not what I was striving for. A month of so ago I decided to try out making milk toffee with a sugar thermometer and after a couple of tries I think I've gotten the trick. I still can't figure out the cold water technique but I sure know how to read a thermometer. So now I have the privilege of sharing my milk toffee recipe for all of you who could never get it just right. I am glad that I have managed this and it would be a sin to keep it to myself because I am sure there are many more of you out there who have experienced similar problems with milk toffee.
This recipe is from Ranjini Nandi, who lives in Toronto with all of her family (who enjoy her wonderful cooking all the time).

So here we go. Lets call it "milk toffee for dummies"!

Preparation time: 30 min. Serves 8 - 24 depending on the sweetness of the tooth!


Ingredients:

1 can (400g)Sweetened condensed milk (Milkmaid) 
1 lb/500gSugar 
1tbsp/ 1 pkt.Vanilla essence / Vanilla sugar
1/4 canWater 
3 ozNuts (Cashew, almonds, hazelnuts etc.)
Butter, for oiling the tray


Method:

First of all you need to prepare the tray. Any baking tray is fine but don't use  a non-stick as you have to cut the toffees in it and you don't want to get any Teflon on them. If your tray is smaller the toffees will be thicker. If your tray is to big then they will be thinner but the toffee you pour into your tray is so viscous that it will not get too thin. Rub butter all over your tray. This gives the toffee a good taste and prevents it from sticking. Then take something to flatten the toffees. Traditionally one would use a fresh banana leaf but I don't usually have any. Foil has been suggested but it doesn't work for me because the toffee is too hot. You can use a wooden board if you can find one that fits inside your baking tray. I used a flexible chopping board. Whatever you use butter this well.



In a large, heavy bottomed pan (no non-stick pans, you will ruin it when you scrape out the crumbs and what is the joy in making milk toffee if you cannot scrape the pan and eat all the crumbs when no one is looking! Make sure your pan is about twice the size as your ingredients and that it has handles that do not heat up) mix the condensed milk, sugar and water. If you are using vanilla sugar mix it in too. Put the pan on medium-high heat. Stir vigorously until all the sugar has dissolved. If you don't do this your end product will be grainy.  Bring the mixture to the boil. 

BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL. THE BUBBLES WILL BURST AND SHOOT OUT VERY HOT LIQUID SUGAR SYRUP, WHICH WILL BURN. IF THIS HAPPENS RUN AFFECTED AREA IMMEDIATELY UNDER COLD WATER. RESIST THE URGE TO LICK OFF THE SUGAR SYRUP THUS BURNING YOUR TOUNGE IN THE PROCESS (talking from experience).

Reduce the heat, if necessary, so that the mixture continues to bubble but does not bubble over. During this state you can stir occasionally (takes me about 10 - 15 min.). While this is going on chop your nuts. Traditionally cashew nuts are used but almonds and hazelnuts work well too. Walnuts don't do it for me, they do not complement the taste of the toffee. You can leave out the nuts and the toffee will still taste good.

Observe your pot closely, stirring occasionally. At some point you will notice small pieces of "toffee" (dark lumps, probably burning sugar) forming in your nice milky goo. At this point you need to start stirring constantly. If you don't your toffee will not be the smooth tuck shop type but the grainy type that you can now buy in the stores. It is now time to take out your sugar thermometer and monitor the heat of your brew. It seems to boil at around 112 C and continue this way for a while. All of a sudden the temperature will start to rise and when it hits 125 C it is time to take it out. Don't worry if it goes over this. It most certainly will because the metamorphism happens so fast. Just be careful of one thing, make sure your thermometer is not hitting the bottom of your pan. This can give you a false reading resulting in milk toffee that will not harden.


Add your nuts and vanilla essence (if using) to the mixture, stir in and pour the very hot sugar mixture into the prepared pan. Press down with the other board or banana leaf. Let the toffee stand for a while and then once it is hard enough to stay put and soft enough to cut, cut it into pieces. The size depends on your personal preference. I prefer smaller pieces then you can just take more if you like it!

Voila! A batch of delicious milk toffee!!


Additional things to add to your milk toffee: dates or any type of dried fruit, cocoa powder dissolved first in hot water (add at around 112 C).
My kids would like me to pour melted chocolate on top. I'll try this some time because it sounds delicious.