Experiencing Sri Lanka

After being in Kenya for a few days on our first ever package tour I got the feeling that Kenya was a very expensive land. Everything cost the equivalent or more of what I pay in Germany. I bought a packet of local biscuits and it cost me 250 Shillings which is about 2.50 EUR. I would have never paid this much in Germany. In fact even 69 cents, which is what I usually pay, would have been too much. Finally I got to a supermarket and found the same pack for 35 cents. This made me wonder, what is it like for a foreigner in Sri Lanka. Do they have the same impression? Are they over charged for everything? I mean it's great for the economy and all that, but it means that only people who are well off can go to Sri Lanka. It also means that they get a totally biased view of the country. So although my family would spend 20 EUR per person for a meal in Sri Lanka, this would only be when celebrating something. The more common option is the humble "rice packet", which ranges from 1 - 2 EUR!

A typical rice packet. Almost always available with the option of fish, chicken, egg or vegetarian. Only at lunch time!

So with a few days to chill by the pool in Kenya, I was inspired to write a guide as to how to get around and do things in Sri Lanka, and to really experience the country and see how people live. I'm also inspired to get a tan, but with the clouds as they are that is not going to happen!!

The first thing you should do before you even buy your ticket is to buy the most up to date Lonely Planet. I always have one with me even though I am Sri Lankan and know my way around well. Things always change and when you are away for too long you tend to loose touch with things. My lonely planet tells me about new services, new restaurants and the current entrance prices. For you it will tell you when the best time to go is, how to travel safely and give you many options for accommodation and food.

The most expensive thing about Sri Lanka is the flight to get there. There are many options. We fly out of Dusseldorf and find that the best option in terms of comfort and price is flying with Emirates through Dubai with a lay over of 3-4 hours. You can opt for a shorter lay over if there are no children travelling with you. Kids tend to slow you down and increase your stress. The last thing you want is to be running through a packed terminal with kids in tow. When we stop in Dubai we have a treat of ice cream and tea at the McDonalds. The prices are decent and last time I was there (2019) they served Dilmah tea, which is about as good as a tea bag gets.

Well this isn't in Dubai! But it is still Dilmah tea ;)

Don't forget to check for visa requirements on the Sri Lankan Immigrations official web site. It pays off to get your visa in advance, if one is required, because it is cheaper and saves you the hassle of getting one on arrival.

Unfortunately, there is still no good public transport connecting the capital Colombo with the airport. They did start the railway line but it only ran once a day. You'd have to be really lucky to have a flight arriving and departing at the same time as the train! The only way to do it is to get a taxi to your final destination. Because I'm guessing that you would like to get the most for your money (just like me) I suggest that you go directly to the capital Colombo. If you have not booked something in advance there is a desk which can help you out with taxi's. It's directly after customs as you enter the arrival hall on your right (as of Dec. 2019). Initially this service was started to help out the Sri Lankan's who were working in the Middle East and coming home for vacations. They would typically bring money, gold and electrical appliances with them and were sometimes offered taxi services at the exit that they would naively accept only to be robbed and dropped off to find their own way home. I've never used this service, but they claim to keep track of the taxi drivers and their destinations so it's unlikely that you will have any trouble. Once you get to the arrivals hall there are all kinds of people offering taxi rides to all kinds of places. Use them at your own risk and negotiate a price before leaving. I'm Sri Lankan, I would not trust any of them. There are a couple of reputable taxi firms that have offices in the arrivals hall. And of course there is always Uber.

Splurging on your first couple of nights in Colombo is a good idea. Stay two nights in an upscale hotel in Colombo Fort. Colombo Fort is full of culture, has lots of shopping and is close to the main train station. Also there is plenty of night life. So if you are hit with jet lag you can just sully on down (or up) to the hotels bar or night club and while away your time.

Top: Seema Malakaya Meditation Center; bottom left: Colombo port; bottom right: Old parliament 

Leave your valuables at home and stroll through the streets of Pettah. It's full of wholesale stores selling everything you could possibly imagine. Among the hustle and bustle you will find plenty of eateries. Pop into one to eat together with the many workers of Pettah. The more people the better the food and the cheaper the price. Try Ruhunu Foods on Lotus Road (for example).

narrow streets, everyone rushing by, full of colours and smells and culture!

Back in Fort visit Cargills department store. Cargills has been around in the same building since colonial times. The shop in Fort is the original and the only one that has been preserved as an old fashioned colonial store. It looks the same today as it did at least 40 years ago. Off to the side you'll find the modern day Cargills, "Cargills Food City". A supermarket that can be found in all major cities. Here you can orient yourself on regular prices. All prices are marked. No negotiation necessary.

Cargills Ltd., Fort, Colomb

Potter over to the renovated Dutch Hospital to shop in upscale Sri Lankan stores. Visit the Dutch Hospital branch of Barefoot. They sell handlooms and much more. Things are expensive but you get what you pay for. Prices are marked so it will give you a very good idea of what costs what although some items (mainly non handloom ones) you may find in other shops for cheaper. For quality souvenirs visit Odel. The best place for SL T-shirts. It's another place with marked prices and, though they are on the higher end, this is where your upper middle class Sri Lankan shops for junk jewellery, clothes and presents.

Inside the courtyard of the Dutch Hospital, Fort, Colombo

If nothing else go here so that you have an idea of how much things should cost. Most of the shops here have much larger stores elsewhere. If you like what you see and you want to have a wider selection and buy more ask at the people working where to go. My guess is they can even tell you how much a tuktuk should cost from Fort to their main stores. Unlike the other stores Odel has a huge "love Sri Lanka" store in Kandy which is right down town and easy to get to by foot. So if you like the Sri Lankan souvenir stuff just wait until you get to Kandy rather than running around in congested Colombo.

If you like crab make sure you go to the Ministry of Crab. It's run by two famous Sri Lankan cricketers. I've never been there because I'm vegetarian, but a friend of mine who is a friend of the owner tells me it is fabulous. The prices are accordingly fabulous and be sure to make a reservation.
After all that bumming around you are sure to be hungry. For a cheap eat head out to Galle Face Green at dusk and follow the locals to the food stalls on the green for some authentic street food.

Galle Face Green - Not my photo. Probably taken at mid-day when it's deserted 

Your next stop should be Kandy. The capital of the hill country and my home town. The best way to get there is to catch the intercity train that leaves twice daily from Colombo Fort train station (possibly thrice). With a bit of luck walking distance from wherever you are staying. You need to book tickets in advance to ensure yourself a seat. You get a seat with your ticket so no need to worry. The train used to just have second class (which is what I always used to travel with) and first class, but now they have other options like an air conditioned car that serves you food! Check out the options on the railway department's website. Whatever option you choose the train is going to be loud. First class, i.e. the observation car, always travels backwards.

A typical Sri Lankan station in the hill country

Iconic view of Bible Rock taken from the train

In Kandy swarms of tuktuk drivers await you to take you to your destination. Pick your accommodation before hand and book in advance. It really helps if you can tell your driver exactly where you want to go. Kandy offers everything in term of accommodation. All types and all prices. Stay right in the middle of town at the colonial style Queen's hotel (where my great grand father used to work) right by the lake and opposite the Temple of the Tooth, or at Sevana City Hotel just yards from the train station (exceptionally clean, excellent food and owned and run by my cousin), or at the capsule hotel  "Clock Inn" (on the other side of town owned and run by an old school friend of mine), or get out of town and stay at a pension like Maya Residence (owned by another cousin of mine), or at a homestay cum hotel (owned and run by my fathers cousin and they just added a swimming pool!) for true Sri Lankan hospitality. And of course if you look in your lonely planet guide you'll find plenty of other options.

Just as a tip, if you stay at Sevana City Hotel make sure that you have at least one dinner there and make it a traditional Sri Lankan dinner. My cousin is the best cook ever. My whole family looks forward to being invited there for dinner every time we visit ;)

If you arrive on the intercity express in the morning you have the whole day ahead of you. Unfortunately you probably won't be able to check in so early in the day. Find out if your hotel has somewhere you can leave your baggage while you investigate the city. Roam around the Kandy market which hasn't changed since it was first built. Check out all the stores in the compact town paying a visit to the various Hindu temples.

Ribbon & lace shop @ Kandy town and racing around the lake in a tuktuk!

For lunch try out Sri Lankan "short eats". These are available at any of the bakeries down Dalada Veediya. Our favourite is Devon Bakery. Sorry they don't seem to have a website. They don't need one, why would you when you are always full! It's been in the same place ever since I can remember. The inconspicuous owner stands inside and silently over looks the going ons. Although I only ever go there once every two years he enquires about my parents and my sister by name (my father was also a regular!). The fruit juices here are good too. If you don't feel like sitting down go to the take out counter and pick something up to go.

Vegetarian short eats at Devon.
They bring you a tray and you can eat what you want (and order more if you like) and you'll be charged for only what you eat. You may not find this hygienic but it does have its advantages.

Next door to Devon on the temple side is the "new" Kandy City Center. An air conditioned mall with an over priced food court at the top and some cool shops underneath. In the basement there is a Keells supermarket. Further up the road from the City Center is a Cargills food city (supermarket).

Kandy is also a great place to shop for souvenirs. There is Odel's "Love Sri Lanka" in the Queens Hotel and around the lake is the Kandyan Arts Association and Laksala. Both have marked prices. A long time ago, when we used to shop at the Kandyan Arts Association they would give us a discount if we didn't come with a guide. In most tourist shops it's best to mention it if no one brought you there. You may just get a discount.

In the evening it's time to visit the famous Temple of the Tooth. Make sure you are appropriately dressed. If you aren't they will provide you with a cloth but don't expect it to be free. You'll need to pay entrance. Time your visit so that you can see the drummers and the famous casket that is supposed to hold the tooth of the buddha.

The Paththirippuwa (octagon) is where the king made his appearances (and apparently from where he watched his queen (s?) bathing from!)

The drummers doing their thing. Sorry but they do usually look quite bored!

Looking for a good dinner? Step into the Old Empire Hotel for a rice and curry (they also have rooms!). This small hotel is old and has maintained it's colonial architecture partly because it is protected and partly because it's owner likes it just the way it is. The structure is completely wooden and was damaged by fire a few years ago. Luckily the owner is buddies with one of the best architects in town (my dad) and got it up and running in time for the high season ;)

Old Empire Hotel

On your second day take the Peradeniya/Penideniya bus out to the Peradeniya Botanical Gardens. Pick up some short eats and some drinks for a picnic lunch before you go. This is one of the best bus routes in Kandy with buses leaving the Kandy market all the time. Just get to the market and ask someone where you can catch the bus.  The bus stop, where you need to get off, is called either Peradeniya gardens or Peradeniya campus. Once you get off the bus look around and you'll find the ticket counter quite easily.  Enjoy your morning investigating the lesser trodden paths, finding your way to the giant bamboo clumps,  the umbrella tree in the middle of the lawn (a perfect picnic spot if you are still allowed to picnic there), the suspension bridge at the end of the park, and the famous orchid houses. It's quite easy to spend the whole day here. Take the bus back into Kandy, feeling free to stop anywhere along the way to check out the plethora of shops catering to both tourists and locals.

At the orchid house

The Mahaweli River as seen from the suspension bridge @ Botanical Gardens

The umbrella tree on the main lawn

Double coconut tree. The worlds largest coconuts!

Another great place to eat in Kandy is at the Muslim Hotel. Very close to the Kandy market on Dalada Veediya, just across from the clock tower. Have a traditional Buriyani or a kotthu roti (roti chopped to make them like thick noodles and the fried up with stuff much like stir fried noodles).

In the evening take a hike up to Arthurs Seat and gaze out over Kandy town. Best after dark but don't venture up there (or back) alone.

In the morning catch a bus from "Good Shed" up to Nuwara Eliya. Nuwara Eliya is a town that is nestled in a valley and was very popular with the British colonisers who considered it to be a little England. Accordingly it is damp and cold and frequently shrouded in mist! The drive to Nuwara Eliya is particularly rewarding with wonderful views along the way. The only trouble with using public transport is that you can't stop to oggle and take pictures. If you suffer from travel sickness this run will drive you nuts so get a seat right up front and take some plastic bags with you.

Typical tea garden

The bus stops right in the middle of the town. Right next door is the market, which although not as big as the Kandy market has a very different atmosphere. Even if you are not in the mood for buying anything it is worth walking through it. You can probably take in the whole town in a matter of an hour. There are plenty of cheap eating places on the main street and for an upscale meal you need look no further than the larger hotels that are walking distance from the town. They can be quite pricey, but my parents just discovered a Thai restaurant at the Grand Hotel which they were very impressed by. The Grand Hotel is another ancient hotel and apparently haunted!

On one side of the bus stop is the market on the other is Victoria Park. A wonderful little park with lovely blooms during the right season. And talking of the right season, if you happen to go to NE during the "season", which is over the Sinhala and Tamil New Year, in April, you will find the weather considerably better and the whole town swamped with masses of people escaping the April heat and taking advantage of the holidays. Note that you will have trouble finding accommodation during this time so book well in advance.

When we are in town we drive out to Gregory Lake (being around 2 km from the town it's walking distance or a short tuk-tuk ride). In the evenings it's become quite a happening place, taking the atmosphere of Colombo's Galle Face Green.

Things to do at Gregory Lake

Pick up your lonely planet and find out the best places to visit a tea factory or to go on a hike. There are plenty of lovely walks around Nuwara Eliya. 

From Nuwara Eliya book a day trip to Horton Plains and take a hike to Worlds End. It's impossible to access Horton Plains by public transport without spending oodles of time and walking over 10 km. You'll feel like you have been transported to a completely different place. The vegetation changes along with the wild life (my cousin just spotted an otter this morning!)

Once you've had your fill find your way back down to Kandy and then start early the next morning on a trip through the cultural triangle. I've been wracking my brains for the past couple of days as to how you would do the cultural triangle taking public transport and with luggage. It's been a bit of a challenge, because you most definitely don't want to lug your backpacks up any of the rocks or around a temple. There is also no such thing as a locker in Sri Lanka, so you cannot just stash your bags somewhere until you're done. So here is my suggestion.

First you should find accommodation in Dambulla, somewhere close to the Kandy Road (the A9). There are a plethora of options ranging from home stays to 5 star hotels. Catch a bus from Kandy early in the morning (ask your host for directions) to Dambulla and stash your bags at your lodgings. Don't forget to take valuables with you. Stock up on short eats and water for a picnic lunch at Sigiriya. The amenities in Dambulla are far better than those in Sigiriya unless you want to eat at one of the fancy restaurants around the rock. Then continue to Sigiriya. How you get to Sigiriya is a matter of choice. You may catch a tuk-tuk from Dambulla or catch a Habarana bus to Inamaluwa and from there continue by tuk-tuk. Sigiriya rock is about 10 km East of the main road.

The rectangular rock in the background is Sigiriya. This photo is taken from my favourite hotel Heritance Kandalama (that I can't afford to stay in anymore!). You'll need a vehicle to get to Kandalama.

Pick up your guide book and enjoy a wonderful day at Sigirya. It's not just about the amazing views from the top, the mirror wall or the frescoes. Just walking around the gardens is an experience. Wonder off the main path and you'll find the crowds drop off and you may even stumble on some un-excavated ruins.

The frescos are a highlight. You are not allowed to photograph them anymore, which gives you more time to admire them and wonder how on earth anyone was able to paint in such a strange place. 

View from the top of the rock. It can be sweltering hot at midday and thus quite empty. Take lots of water, a hat and sunscreen. 

Investigating the ruins

Once you've had your fill head back to Dambulla to visit the rock caves. Depending on what time you get back and how tiered you can either go up the Dambulla rock in the evening or leave it until the next morning.

Inside the rock caves

The rock caves are a definite must see. Last time we visited, in 2017, they had moved the ticket office from the gaudy 'golden temple' to a new ticket office on the other side of the rock. Don't forget this is an active temple so you need to cover up just as you did for the temple in Kandy. With regards to taking  photographs note that in SL you should never take a photograph with a person posing in front of the image of the Buddha. This is considered disrespectful and can potentially get you in to a lot of trouble. But you may take pictures of the statues and pose for pictures outside in the "courtyard".

The statues and paintings are inside the white buildings

And yes, it's perched on the top of a big granite rock!

Next on your itinerary should be Polonnaruwa, the second capital of Sri Lanka. Ask your host for directions to catching an AC bus directly to Polonnaruwa (if the service even still exists). The drive should take around 1 hour.

For some reason I've always preferred Polonnaruwa over Anuradhapura (the larger first capital of SL that you will visit next). I think it's the fact that it is much more tranquil and less crowded. I remember travelling there as a child with my parents. They would stop at the side of the tank and we'd have a picnic lunch. My father would accost the fishermen and buy some fresh, fresh water fish to take home (we hated this part!) and we would explore the ruins. I literally thought that my parents were kidding when they told us they were important cultural sites. They were so deserted. Only the monkey's frequented the place. I have not been to Polonnaruwa for over 20 years and I'm sure that everything is now cleaned up and not as I remember it. But I do believe that if you visit sites that are not religious you will find that they are less crowded. And maybe you can find your own undiscovered stone hidden among the trees. I would recommend staying at least 2 full days here. Stay within walking distance of the sites.

Your next stop is Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka's first capital. The bus ride from Polonnaruwa takes 3 -4 hours, but inquire if there is an express bus because I imagine that at some point they will introduce one. Plan on staying here at least a couple of days and more if you can. Stay somewhere close to the sites so that you can leisurely roam around and go back to your hotel for an afternoon nap when things get too hot. Us up country people find Anuradhapura swelteringly hot! I don't think I've stayed more than one night here ever!! But then I've always had the luxury of being able to come back. Here you should again pick up your guide book. There are just too many good things to list here. Don't forget you'll need to buy tickets to get in to the sites.

Ruwanweli Maha Seya

Samahdhi buddha statue

Most likely the renovations are complete and it looks nothing like this any more!

Now it's time to relax and take it slow. You've seen so many ruins that they are probably coming out of your ears! You're hot, dusty and tiered and the only thing you can think of is a crystal blue ocean, perfect sand and lazy afternoons. Take a bus to Trincomalee and from there head to one of the many beaches. Accommodation can be expensive, but there are all kinds of options from hostels to 5 star hotels, and the beaches belong to everyone (which means you have to be a bit careful and put up with tourist touts trying to sell you all kind of things)!

Endless beaches that may or may not be crowded depending on the season

Kovil on the top of another granite rock in Trinco town

There is a train from Trincomalee back to Colombo. Since it's better to be safe than sorry get to Colombo at least a day before your flight and book a taxi back to the airport.

You've not covered all of SL, but that is what next time is for. Explore the surfing options at Arugambay, Sri Lanka's national parks at Wilpattu, Yala, Uduwalawe, etc., take a trip up North and explore the Jaffna peninsula, go whale and dolphin watching, suba dive around the old wrecks, take a trip to the rain forest ...