Getting Around:
Getting around in HK is pretty simple but you do have to consider the options. Since we arrived and left via the Hong Kong airport we invested in two "airport express travel pass" for 300 HK$. Unfortunately they only have these for adults so we had to buy regular tickets for the kids. We ended up buying them "child tourist day passes" (25 HK$) on the days when we traveled a lot and then we bought them an Octopus card for the other days.
One thing I missed was that the with the airport express travel pass you can only travel on the MTR, which basically means you can't take the buses, the trams or the trolleys. However, the card can be used as an octopus card so once you get "down town" load up some money onto the card so that you can pay for your bus rides. It's also really useful to pay for other things like the ride up to Victoria peak and you can get the remaining balance refunded before you leave.
Hotel:
We stayed in the Harbour Plaza North Point Hotel. I chose this particular hotel because it was close to a subway station, it had a swimming pool and because they had rooms for four people at a "reasonable" price. It turned out to be better than we had imagined :) For one, when you take the subway and get out at Quarry Bay and take exit C as soon as you come out you see a building right ahead of you. This is the hotel. 2 small blocks away from the exit.
Then there were the rooms. The picture below is exactly what I had seen:
Then there were the rooms. The picture below is exactly what I had seen:
What I didn't realize is that that sofa is a double sofa bed and that there is another room (a bit along from the yellow flowers) with a double bed in it! To have the extra room was a real luxury especially when dealing with jet lag. The kitchen has a stove top, fridge, freezer and kettle. That was just perfect for us. And yes the place looks exactly as in the picture except for the flowers on the table and the table setting!! Of course you might not be lucky enough to get the view as seen above. You might just look out onto some sky scrapers! This is what it looked like out of our room, which was not bad at all.
Day 1:
Victoria Peak Gardens: We tried to leave as early as possible so that we would not have to stand in line for the Peak tram! Of course on the first day this is not as easy as it sounds!! We decided that around 20 Euro per person was a bit too much for us to pay for breakfast at the hotel so we followed the Mac Donald's signs to pick something up a bit less healthy and a whole heap cheaper. It was farther than we expected but not that far away. We had some American pancakes with American syrup. I really hate syrup and never ate it while in the US, but oh well ... it hit the spot with the kids!!
Then we took the subway to Admiralty and then walked up to the Garden Road Peak Tram Terminus. As usual we were totally confused when we got out of the subway station. But this time I had prepared myself by downloading a compass app on to my phone (yes, of course, one that works without a network connection!). The hardest part was crossing the road.
We must have gotten to the station around 9:10 and I was amazed that there was absolutely no one there. I'd read all kinds of horror stories online about how long it takes to actually catch the tram, how you never get a seat, how you can't see any of the view if you are on the wrong side etc. I was totally paranoid about it and wanted to get there at 7 am when the tram started service! So we got the most wonderful seats and could see all the views, although they were not as good as I thought they might be.
Once we got to the top it didn't look at all like I had imagined. It was actually kind of tacky. But we didn't plan on staying at the stop, we wanted to go to the gardens near to the peak. So we started climbing up the hill. Just take the steepest path, that's the correct one :( The kids spent a bit of time at the playground along the way, where there were toilets and a drinking fountain. A blessing because it was quite hot and we were already out of water. It must have been the jet lag because I remember being really tiered and not interested in the gardens anymore and it couldn't have been more than 10 o'clock. But we were tough and continued the climb up to the gardens. Unfortunately we met a menace that we were not prepared for MOSQUITOES. Now these mosquitoes must see no blood at all because they just started swarming around us. I usually don't get bitten so when they started attacking me I decided it was time to get the kids and hubby out of there. I still highly recommend going to the gardens, it's all tropical up there and the foliage is really nice but if you go in the summer don't forget the mosquito repellent else you will be eaten alive. During the 10 minutes or so that we were on the road my beloved got over 50 mosquito bites that plagued him for at least another two weeks!
We strolled down the Old Peak Road which was terribly steep so I don't recommend it if you have weak knees. Some people were even carrying their dogs, it was that steep. But we had a treat waiting for us at the bottom (and through some skyscrapers, across some busy roads, etc.) and that was lunch at a vegetarian dim sum restaurant called Pure Veggie House @ 3F Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road. The atmosphere and the food were both great. I don't know if you need a reservation but they asked us if we had one when we walked in but since it was still early they had space for us. It started filling up around 12:30. You can find more info about this place on my Google map, in the lonely planet or on trip adviser. It's really weird though, it's in what looks like a residential block of flats and the name somehow didn't match up. But once you get out of the elevator on the third floor it's pretty clear that you are in the right place.
After lunch we popped into the super market next door and bought some fruit. I bought myself some durian and pigged out! No one else in our family likes the fruit, which I think is a shame. The best part of eating durian is fighting with others to get your share. I grew up fighting for durian with my cousins and the fruit just did not taste the same without them.
We then walked down to the Hong Kong Park and walked through the aviary which was really, really nice. It's absolutely spotless and they have tones of birds. The girls wanted to pick up some feathers but there was no chance of that because they kept it so clean. So instead they just braided their chain link curtains. I don't think they would have been too happy about that. Don't worry there was no chance that the birds could have gotten out! We then walked down to the tea ware museum because we are really tea fanatics. We had a good time there looking at all the fancy tea pots and learning how the different types of Chinese tea were brewed. There was a kids room which ours were a bit too old for and unfortunately there was a big sign saying that children should not be left unattended. We thought the visit was worth it although I would have liked somewhere to have a cuppa and a better gift store.
Here are some photos at the Hong Kong Park:
The fountain was fantastic! It's made so you can go in without getting wet. The only disadvantage is that you are not allowed to touch the water. There is a person standing there and they will shout at you if you try. My girls and I would have loved to have taken a shower.
We then caught the subway from Admiralty back to the hotel and spent the afternoon relaxing (i.e. napping) at the pool. But we headed out again in the evening to have another delicious meal. We went to a place called Sing Kee (10 Stanley St.) which is apparently one of the last surviving open-air food stalls. I can't seem to find a link that will give you more info but believe me the food and the atmosphere are great. It's on my china map and it's a good idea to find the name written in Chinese script so you make sure you are at the right place. Don't expect it to be clean!
I spent so much time in this place we didn't get to see much else! I had to be dragged away before I spent my whole vacation budget!
Don't miss the Man Mo Temple. It may be small but it has a really cool interior. The coils on the ceiling are incense.
We had planned to go to the Luk Yu Tea House for lunch but it was fully booked so we went to another dim sum place instead called Lin Heung Kui. Not as fancy, not as expensive, totally packed and, be warned, they stop making new dim sum at around 1400. We nearly missed it.
Now get back to that pool. You sure will have earned it. It might not seem like much but walking around for hours absorbing all that new culture (plus the lingering jet lag) can really make you tired and grumpy.
Head out again in the evening to ride the star ferry to Kowloon and watch the light show. You've got to see the light show and it's best seen from between the Kowloon Public Pier and the Avenue of Stars. For a fancy meal we picked the Serenade Chinese Restaurant which was recommended to us by our sister-in-law who is a Hongkonger. If you are lucky you can get a table over looking the bay. If you are like us you'll think this is a great place to watch the light show from, but the light show is choreographed to music which you probably would not hear inside.
We were rather disappointed by the light show. We had a good spot to view it from and we could hear the music but lights blinking on the buildings across the bay just didn't do it for us. I thought all the buildings would participate but they don't and the kids didn't always catch where the lights were blinking (heck, even I didn't sometimes!!).
We strolled down the Old Peak Road which was terribly steep so I don't recommend it if you have weak knees. Some people were even carrying their dogs, it was that steep. But we had a treat waiting for us at the bottom (and through some skyscrapers, across some busy roads, etc.) and that was lunch at a vegetarian dim sum restaurant called Pure Veggie House @ 3F Coda Plaza, 51 Garden Road. The atmosphere and the food were both great. I don't know if you need a reservation but they asked us if we had one when we walked in but since it was still early they had space for us. It started filling up around 12:30. You can find more info about this place on my Google map, in the lonely planet or on trip adviser. It's really weird though, it's in what looks like a residential block of flats and the name somehow didn't match up. But once you get out of the elevator on the third floor it's pretty clear that you are in the right place.
After lunch we popped into the super market next door and bought some fruit. I bought myself some durian and pigged out! No one else in our family likes the fruit, which I think is a shame. The best part of eating durian is fighting with others to get your share. I grew up fighting for durian with my cousins and the fruit just did not taste the same without them.
We then walked down to the Hong Kong Park and walked through the aviary which was really, really nice. It's absolutely spotless and they have tones of birds. The girls wanted to pick up some feathers but there was no chance of that because they kept it so clean. So instead they just braided their chain link curtains. I don't think they would have been too happy about that. Don't worry there was no chance that the birds could have gotten out! We then walked down to the tea ware museum because we are really tea fanatics. We had a good time there looking at all the fancy tea pots and learning how the different types of Chinese tea were brewed. There was a kids room which ours were a bit too old for and unfortunately there was a big sign saying that children should not be left unattended. We thought the visit was worth it although I would have liked somewhere to have a cuppa and a better gift store.
Here are some photos at the Hong Kong Park:
The fountain was fantastic! It's made so you can go in without getting wet. The only disadvantage is that you are not allowed to touch the water. There is a person standing there and they will shout at you if you try. My girls and I would have loved to have taken a shower.
We then caught the subway from Admiralty back to the hotel and spent the afternoon relaxing (i.e. napping) at the pool. But we headed out again in the evening to have another delicious meal. We went to a place called Sing Kee (10 Stanley St.) which is apparently one of the last surviving open-air food stalls. I can't seem to find a link that will give you more info but believe me the food and the atmosphere are great. It's on my china map and it's a good idea to find the name written in Chinese script so you make sure you are at the right place. Don't expect it to be clean!
Day 2:
On day 2 we actually went to see Ping Shan Heritage Trail but it was such a let down that I would not recommend it. Especially if you are travelling on to main land China. I expected to see a park but instead it was a residential area with a few old, not well maintained, buildings scattered around. The information center at the end of the trail (or the beginning depending on how you look at it) was quite nice, but on the top of a hill that I really didn't want to climb. The climb was not in vain, the toilets were clean and the building air-conditioned, but as I said I would not recommend it. Goodness we don't even have a photo's from this place!! And if you think that travelling out there might be a good opportunity to try one of the cheapest Michelin restaurants on Earth, don't waste your time. We tried it out and they were the most disgusting noodles we've ever tasted. My husband said that the noodles usually taste dry so that was normal but the broth the noodles were in was utterly tasteless.
Instead take a walking tour down town (we did a shorter version of it). If you've ever been to China town in San Francisco you basically can imagine what it will look like. However, it is much, much bigger! I'll let you discover the walking tour on my Google map it starts at Sutherland St. and can be found in the lonely planet on p. 483. Some points of interest though: On the top floor of Western Market you will find the most amazing fabric stores. Not necessarily cheap, but fabric from all over the world and absolutely beautiful. I bought this to make dresses for my girls:
Don't miss the Man Mo Temple. It may be small but it has a really cool interior. The coils on the ceiling are incense.
Head out again in the evening to ride the star ferry to Kowloon and watch the light show. You've got to see the light show and it's best seen from between the Kowloon Public Pier and the Avenue of Stars. For a fancy meal we picked the Serenade Chinese Restaurant which was recommended to us by our sister-in-law who is a Hongkonger. If you are lucky you can get a table over looking the bay. If you are like us you'll think this is a great place to watch the light show from, but the light show is choreographed to music which you probably would not hear inside.
We were rather disappointed by the light show. We had a good spot to view it from and we could hear the music but lights blinking on the buildings across the bay just didn't do it for us. I thought all the buildings would participate but they don't and the kids didn't always catch where the lights were blinking (heck, even I didn't sometimes!!).
Day 3:
Today is the day to see my favourite attraction the Chi Lin Nunnery, but before you get there visit the Pak Tai Temple, Wanchai and then ride up to the top of the Bank of China tower to take in yet another aerial view of Hong Kong. You walked past the Bank of China tower when walking from the subway station to catch the Peak View Tram. Then hop back on that subway and travel all the way to Diamond Hill station. We came out into something that looked like a mall but instead of going inside we walked around the building. You'll see the gardens on the other side of the road. Cross the road and walk along and you will soon see the Chi Lin Nunnery looming in front of you (probably on the left hand side, (sigh) across the road AGAIN!).
This place is awesome. Spend your time quietly and peacefully walking around admiring all the architecture, statues, gardens and if you are lucky, a nun or two. What got my hubby about this place was the fruit that was offered to the gods. It was immaculate, not a blemish on it, he initially thought that they were all plastic!
The gift shop is not great but they do have toilets. No pictures are allowed inside so I don't have anything to show. But believe me this place is worth the look, plus you can't see it on photo's anyway!
Once you are done with the nunnery cross the road using the bridge at the front entrance and it will bring you down into the gardens. At least I'm pretty sure it will. We walked all the way around but exited by the nunnery. Spend your time investigating these wonderfully manicured gardens. There is a little picnic area which is the only place you can sit and eat your own food. You can't go in the pagoda in the middle but it is beautiful to look at.
There is a super expensive tea house in the middle of the gardens. They were way above our budget (35 Euro for a cup of tea!) but I'm guessing they made tea properly (as described in the tea ware museum). For those of us less well off the cafeteria just across the path is a good stop. We were hot and needed something to drink and we bought something that looked like a slushy but it wasn't from a machine. They took ice and put it in the blender and added some syrup and some blueberries. It was the most amazing slushy we have ever tasted. Not too sweet, amazingly cold and (if you have kids) fun to eat. And you know how once you suck on most slushy's you are just left with ice? Well that didn't happen here. I wish I could remember what it was called. It wasn't called a slushy but there was a description and I remember it was at the end of the menu.
Next to the cafe is a building with an exhibit of petrified wood. Totally weird to have it there, but it's there so you should not miss out on it.
Given that it's now pretty late head on over to the Temple Street night market. It starts at around 6 pm. We bought fancy USB sticks (yes, they work) for the girls (one was a minion) and a band loom with heaps of rubber bands. This was the best buy ever because it kept the kids occupied for at least another 2 weeks. Every time we sat down at a restaurant to eat or where waiting for a train they would pull out there loom and bands and start crafting.
At the night market there are plenty of places to eat. They just open up on to the street. I can't tell you where we ate but I can tell you it was yummy.
Day 4:
As to what you do today, it will depend totally on what time your flight/train/boat leaves. We had a midday flight to Shanghai so I spent the morning packing while the rest of them went down to the pool. Our hotel had a free shuttle bus to the Hong Kong station which we wish we'd found out about earlier! We took this to the station and we could check our baggage in right at the station. It was great not to have to carry our bags around with us and I'm guessing the lines were shorter at the train station than they would have been at the airport. I think you can check your bags 3 hours earlier which means you have time to do some last minute shopping if you so wish. To take advantage of this service you have to have a ticket for the airport express train.
Bye, bye Hong Kong. I hope that we get to see you again!
