Sri Lankan Vegetarian Cutlets

This recipe has been a while in the making. While I can make fish cutlets pretty well it doesn't do us much good because my kids are vegetarian and it is only my husband who is a pescatarian. Cutlets are a popular Sri Lankan short eat, but they are also served with rice and curry unlike other short eats. Like all Sri Lankan short eats they take time to prepare and are best eaten piping hot. 

Sri Lankan's have all kinds of myths as to why cutlets pop. I've been given years of advise about how to make the perfect cutlet. I've followed all instructions but none of them work consistently. But fortunately, after around 20 years, I finally realised why these snippets of advice actually work and why cutlets pop.

Cutlets pop because there is too much moisture in the cutlet and/or the oil is not the right temperature. [This is exactly the same reason why my falafel used to pop (passed tense since I've perfected my falafel!)] And it is as simple as that. Reduce the moisture, use a thermometer and you too can make the perfect cutlet. So you might ask "then why did it take so long to perfect this recipe?" The answer is a simple combination of "it's not so easy to reduce the moisture with just vegetables" and "it's hard to find the time when you have a full time job and two kids". 

Preparation time: 2.5 hours; makes 24

Ingredients:

500 g	Floury potatoes, peeled
250 g	Carrots, peeled
1 tbsp.	Butter
100 g	Leeks (tender green part)
1	Garlic clove (small), minced or pulped
1/4 tsp.	Bullion powder (or bullion cube)
1 tsp.	Salt
1/4 tsp.	Pepper
1/4 cup	Breadcrumbs
1 l	Oil - for deep frying
1 lrg	Egg
1 tbsp.	Flour
1/2 cup + 2 tbsp.	Breadcrumbs

Method:

Make sure you use "floury" potatoes. In SL this would be the yellow ones. Unfortunately I don't personally know which type these are in other countries. According to the BBC Food Desiree, Estima, King Edward and Maris Piper are floury varieties. In Germany they are sold as "floury cooking" (mehlig kochende) potatoes! If you use what German's call "firmly cooking" (festkochende) the potatoes will not be as easy to mash and seem to retain too much water because they have to cook longer to become mashable. 

In case you need it (maybe floury=fluffy?)

Cut the potatoes roughly into large dice (~2 cm cube) and add them to boiling water. Cook for around 8 minutes or until soft and mashable. Don't cook them so that they disintegrate. You want some body to your cutlets. This is what distinguishes them from croquettes. Drain the water and allow the potatoes to cool.

While your potatoes are cooking prepare your carrots. I've struggled for a long while trying to figure out how to integrate carrots into my cutlets. I don't know why but I just feel like carrots are the right thing to have in there. What I've found with carrots is that they don't smash very well (unless you put them in a food processor and turn them into puree) and if you boil them forever they absorb too much water. So to incorporate them into my recipe I had to figure out how to cook them and get rid of some of the water. I finally accomplished this by grating them and then steaming them in a cheesecloth.

I like to use organic carrots because they tend to taste of something. I mean, they actually taste of carrots! You should grate the carrots on a coarse setting (the coarse setting of any "old" grater should be fine). Then line your steamer with cheesecloth and place the grated carrots in the cheesecloth. Steam them in this way for about x minutes or until they are soft. How long you actually have to steam them will depend on how coarsely you grated them. When you remove the carrots from the steamer pick them up in the cheesecloth and leave them in a colander to cool.

Leeks are another must have in cutlets. However, leeks cannot be mashed. So apparently the trick is to fry them in butter until they are soft else they will cause your cutlets to pop. I'm actually extrapolating from advice I have been given about onions! Use the leafy part of your leeks. If you are in SL or ever have been marketing in SL you will know that Sri Lankan leeks have way more green top than white bottom. In Germany it is completely the opposite. My theory is that Germans just leave their leeks in the ground for so long that the green tops are too hard to be eaten and thus have to be trashed. I personally cannot buy leeks with soft enough leaves that they could be used in a cutlet. But I'm hardcore and decided this year was the year for cutlets so I planted my own leeks. And they do not have a thick white bottom AND they have lots of nice soft green leaves (at least now they do!). If you cannot find leeks with soft leaves you can substitute with green onions (scallions, spring onions, whatever you want to call them). And if you are not in SL you know exactly what all these things are!

Leeks straight from my garden

Chop your leeks finely. Add the butter to a pan and pan fry the leeks (scallions, green onions, spring onions,...) together with the garlic. If you want to add onions you can also fry them in the butter. Just make sure you dice them really, really small. If you over fry any of these ingredients they will become hard. You don't want this. So very lightly fry them and as soon as they are soft remove them from the heat. 

By now your potatoes are cool enough. You can smash them with the back of a fork or use your hands. Don't use a potato masher because then you will have croquettes and (just a reminder) we are not making croquettes. Move over to the carrots. Pick them up in the cheesecloth and squeeze some of the water out. Don't squeeze all the water out. Just give it a light squeeze. Too much squeeze will make the carrots very dry and not very tasty. 

Add the carrots to the potatoes along with the leeks/garlic, salt & pepper, bullion powder, breadcrumbs and mix all the ingredients together. 

Now we come to forming the balls. It's very easy and unlike popular belief, they will not pop if they are not perfectly spherical. How big your balls are depends on, well, many things. But mainly it is a matter of taste. I like smaller balls. About a tablespoon full or something that fits neatly in the palm of my hand. So take a tablespoon of mixture and roll it into a nice tight ball. The first time you attempt this recipe you should make all the balls first and line them up on a baking tray (or a large plate, chopping board, etc.). Next, in a bowl, whisk together a tablespoon of flour and one egg. Pour the remaining breadcrumbs into another bowl. 

The next part some people find very messy and end up getting egg into their breadcrumbs and loads of stuff sticking to their hands. To avoid this use my two hand method. 

Take a cutlet (in your right hand) and drop it into the breadcrumbs. Use your left hand to pour some breadcrumbs over it. Once the surface is no longer damp pick it up in your left hand and squeeze it a bit so that the breadcrumbs stick and the cutlet becomes tighter. Dip a bit of this cutlet into the egg mixture and then move it to your right hand where you can roll it about so that the egg dampens all the surface. Then drop the cutlet back into the breadcrumbs, pour some breadcrumbs over it, pick it up in your left hand and put it back on the board until it is ready to be fried. So left hand dry, right hand wet. Of course you can switch the hands. Or if you are really lucky have someone else to do the dry/wet part.

Somewhere along the line you can heat up your oil. You need enough oil to deep fry. If you are using a deep fryer just follow the deep fryers instructions. I use a saucepan and fill it with 1 litre of sunflower oil. You can use whatever oil you like. Nothing can make a cutlet healthy! If you do not use a deep fryer make sure your pan is deep enough so that the oil is only half way up to avoid the oil from overflowing. Heat your oil to 350 Celsius and fry your cutlets until they are golden brown. You should lower them into the hot oil to prevent splashing. I usually fry 3-4 at a time. If you put too many in the temperature of the oil will drop too much and you can only guess what happens then (yes, POP!). If your cutlets sink to the bottom and stay there (mine do) then the part touching the bottom of the pan will burn. So you need to figure out a way to prevent this from happening. I stick my skimmer mesh under them to keep them off the bottom. 

(In case you are wondering what a "skimmer mesh" is)

Drain on paper towels. Enjoy hot with ketchup, Sriracha sauce, or your favourite dip. Or serve them along side rice and curry. Check out my Sri Lankan curry recipes for rice and curry inspiration. 

You can find a printable pdf here.

Vietnamese summer rolls - vegetarian

What I really wanted was spring rolls to serve with a dim sum dinner. But I figured that there would be too many fried things and summer rolls would be nice and healthy. In addition, I still had wrappers left over from a previous try.

I really like these rolls because they are crunchy and fresh. You could put so many different things in them. And the only time consuming thing about these rolls is that you have to cut up the fillings into nice thin sticks. My husband thought that the rolls were too big, so I cut them in half which really helps show off all the fillings inside.

Most people make these with shrimp because they like how they look with the shrimp. You can add shrimp to the filling (marinade with lime and salt, steam and slice lengthwise), but personally I think they look much better without the shrimp. In fact I find it quite spooky with the shrimp showing through. This might be because I am vegetarian!!

Here's my recipe:

Preparation time: max 2.5 hours (includes a lot of sitting time); makes 16-20 rolls 

Ingredients:

16 - 20	Round rice paper wrappers, available in Asian stores (at least in Germany and the USA)
1 pack	Tofu, firm
2 - 3	Carrots
1/2	Cucumber
1 head	Lettuce
2 oz	Bean thread noodles, Chinese vermicelli, rice vermicelli
10 sprigs	Coriander
5 sprigs	Mint leaves
1 tbsp.	Soya sauce
	Oil for frying
Dipping sauce
1/4 cup	Peanut butter
1/2 cup	Coconut milk (3 tbsp. coconut milk powder + water)
2 tbsp.	Sugar (omit or reduce if peanut butter already has sugar in it)
1 tbsp.	Fresh lemon juice (about 1/2 lemon)
2 tsp.	Soya sauce
2 tsp.	Sriracha sauce
1 tsp.	Sesame oil

Method:

I don't particularly like fresh firm tofu so I fried some for these rolls. Tofu fries best if some of the water is pressed out. There are many ways to do this. I drained the water out of the pack. Placed the tofu on a chopping board which I made sure was tilted enough so any pressed out water would run off. Placed another chopping board on top. Filled a jug with water and placed it on top of all of this. Now you probably can figure a safer way of doing this. In my case eventually the water jug fell off because the tofu got compacted unevenly. Lucky for me the glass jug fell into my plastic strainer that was in the sink. The glass did not crack and all the water fell tidyly into the sink. Of course this was my plan all along ;) At least this is what I told my husband after we both rushed downstairs to the kitchen to see what the noise was. (We had had scares the night before because we heard thuds in the night. These turned out to be ornaments slipping off our Christmas tree because the tree had dried out!) Anyway, let the tofu drain for around half an hour.

Slice the tofu into strips. I cut the block into 3 slices parallel to the kitchen surface and then widthwise so that the sticks cross section was roughly square. The width of the tofu is the perfect length for the sticks. Heat a pan of fresh oil (else the sticks will not taste very good) over high heat and lower the sticks in a few at a time.
I'm sure others have noticed that when you deep fry tofu sticks they attract each other and stick together. For this reason I only fried 3 at a time trying hard to keep them from getting stuck. Each stick was fried for 1:20 to 1:30 minutes (I aimed for a light crust and a soft inside) and drained on kitchen paper. Set them aside to cool.

Next thing to do is to soak the noodles. There are many different types of noodles that you can use. I actually have no idea which ones I have in the kitchen right now (Eeek!). My guess is that they are bean thread noodles. You can use rice noodles as well. To make my life easier I buy the cheap noodles that are packed in a plastic bag and are all broken to pieces. I really hate the regular noodles that are all so nicely packaged because when you want only 1 oz from a 5 oz pack it is almost impossible to separate them. And there is no magic way that I know to separate them. I've tried knives and scissors. I gave up when I saw my father-in-law (previously the owner of a fantastic Chinese restaurant) instruct his daughter to cut a pack up with scissors. It was a very cruel form of torture and it led me to believe that there was no better way to divide up bean thread noodles. Then I discovered the cheap bags in the local Asian store. They are really a life saver if you can find them.
I poured boiling water over my noodles and left them to soak until they were soft. Once they are soft drain them really well by letting them sit in a strainer for 15 minutes or so.

Cut the carrots into sticks as thin as possible and about as long as the tofu sticks. Cover them and set aside. Peel and de-seed the cucumber and also cut into sticks. These can be a bit thicker than the carrots but should be around the same length. Cover and set aside.

Wash, dry and cut the leafy parts of the lettuce into thin strips. I used romaine lettuce to get a bit of crunch.

And wash the coriander and mint leaves. Remove the leaves from the stems and cut the mint leaves into very fine strips.

By now the tofu has cooled off. Take each matchstick and cut, using a very sharp knife, into 4 quarters lengthwise. Sprinkle the soya sauce over the tofu.

Now set everything up in an assembly line fashion. Get a large bowl of very warm water (but not boiling) to soak your wrappers in and you are ready to start.

Immerse a wrapper in the bowl of water and let it soak for 10 seconds. Take it out and lay it on the counter and wait until it is completely soft. While waiting you can soak the next wrapper. I seemed to be able to have two wrappers on my counter at any given time. Once the wrapper is soft you are finally ready to put everything together. It's so difficult to describe how to do this so here are some pictures to guide you. The photos are (obviously!) from left to right!

1. carrots, 2. cucumber, 3. tofu, 4. lettuce, 5. noodles, 6. coriander & mint

Now the big challenge... rolling up the roll. The good thing is that these things are very elastic and don't break very easily. If you are Sri Lankan, then roll it up just like a Chinese roll. If you have no idea what I am talking about it would be best to take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfI1wMeDXhg starting at around 21 seconds. Some people like their summer rolls flat, but I like mine round!

You can make your rolls in advance and keep them on the counter for a couple of hours. However, they will stick together. Thus you should line them up so they don't touch each other and cover each layer with cling wrap. Finally cover everything with cling wrap to keep them fresh and moist until you are ready to serve. If you are going to cut them in half you should do this just before serving.

Now no summer roll would be complete without a dipping sauce. My favourite is a peanut sauce. You can either buy it in a bottle in any Asian market or you can make it yourself. Just put all the ingredients for the sauce in a blender and pulse until everything is combined. Alternatively mix with a fork.

Guten Appetit!

Sri Lankan Dahl. Red Lentils. A Staple.

My husband has been finding this blog very useful. A quick call from me to tell him that I'm stuck in the worst back up ever and am not going to make it in time to make dinner, sets the ball rolling. He checks the app we share to see whats on the menu, opens up this blog and cooks us dinner. Sometimes adding his own ingredients in to the mix.

Because of this I really had to get my act together so that he can cook one of our main staples - red lentils, dahl, parippu. What ever you may call it we can't have Sri Lankan food without it. It's marvellously healthy and terribly popular with the kids. It seems to be one of those universal foods kind of like fries and chips. We've never had a kid who does not like it, neither in the USA nor in Germany!

Serves 4; Preparation time 30 min.

Ingredients

1 cup	Red lentils, Mysore dahl
2 cups	Water (approx.)
1/2	Large red onion
1 sprig	Curry leaves
1/2 tsp.	Dill seeds
1 inch	Rampe (pandan)
1/4 tsp.	Turmeric
1/2 tsp.	Salt
1/2 tsp.	Chili powder
2 tsp.	Sri Lankan curry powder (unroasted)
3 tbsp.	Coconut milk powder
1 tsp.	Sri Lankan roasted curry powder
1 tbsp.	Lemon or lime juice

Method:

First of all I wash the lentils twice or thrice just like one washes rice. From there on there are several different options: temper first, temper in the middle etc. But I've been using a much simpler way for many years, cutting out the tempering and thus the oil!

I add water to cover the lentils (around 2 cups) and then put in all the ingredients except the coconut milk, the roasted curry powder and the lime juice. Then I simply put the lid on, put the cooker on high and let it boil. Putting the lid on is very, very important. It also helps to use a heavy bottomed saucepan.

Once the curry boils, I whip of the lid, give it a stir and put the lid back on again. The heat now is turned down to an amazing very low (2 on my cooker) and I allow the lentils to cook. I also check every now and then to see if there is always enough water in the pot. If there is not enough water the lentils will stick to the bottom of the pan and burn. Very yucky! Once most of the water is absorbed I add in the coconut milk, either from a can or powdered coconut milk powder. If I'm using the powdered sort (3 tablespoons) then I stir it in to the lentils and then add some water. This helps prevent any lumps forming. However, if this is the first time you are making this I suggest dissolving the coconut milk powder in 2 tablespoons of lukewarm water and then adding it. If using canned coconut milk the amount will depend totally on how thick the coconut milk is. The stuff I've been getting here in Germany is so thick that I add 2 heaped tablespoons in and some water (a few tablespoons). You can adjust the amount of water depending on how liquid you want your resulting curry to be. If you don't have coconut milk you can use regular full fat milk.

Then let the whole thing come to the boil and it should be done. If some of the lentils are not yet done, just give it a stir and let it cook for longer on very low (with the lid closed). You may need to add water to the curry to prevent it from burning.

Once everything is cooked remove from the heat add the roasted curry powder and the lime juice (you can use lemon juice instead) and cover until needed. Stir and then serve.

Garnished with coriander leaves and chilli flakes

This curry is totally forgiving. I've made it without onions, without curry leaves or rampe and it's still great. You can add tomatoes to it and/or garlic. If your a fish eater some Maldive fish tastes great too. Another favourite Sri Lankan variation is to add spinach to it (careful though, the spinach adds a lot of water to the curry). I've added coriander leaves to it and my cousin makes it with mustard seeds instead of dill. Everyone has their own variation. The one really important ingredient is the turmeric, without this it looks a bit weird. Having said that, my mother always makes it without turmeric and it tastes fine to me!

And finally, my little one loves it when I sprinkle fried onions on top. Try it out and add your own little twist to it. Tastes great with any kind of rice or with thick chunky bread. Kids love it in a sandwich too.

(Well not quite finally... you can also use any other lentil to make this curry, but from my experience it doesn't taste as good).